It was opportunity that led me to squash a leaf of northern bayberry, a durable shrub that matures and down the Northeastern coast of the United States and into Canada. It was 2011, and I was on a barrier island in Brooklyn, heading to the beach. Bayberry covered the summertime dunes like a ruffled green toss. As I opened my hand, the aroma of the bruised leaf whispered, “Prepare me!” In my garden-designing life I had actually neglected this native duneland shrub up until I discovered its worth as a hard roof plant, able to stand up to wind, baking sun, and dry conditions. And now that boosting scent amplified its appeal. I brought house some leaves.
Bayberry is now a staple in my kitchen area, at every phase. From its fragile spring foliage and little flowers through the leaves’ sluggish summer strengthening, and into its fall strength, bayberry works.
Photography by Marie Viljoen
Bayberry utilized to be categorized botanically as Myrica pensylvanica Now, it’s Morella pensylvanica And this shows its connections to other bayberries, like southern bayberry (likewise called southern wax myrtle), M. cerifera, and California wax myrtle ( M. californica).
Bayberry might be best understood in New England for its fruit and its usage in candle-making. The summer-ripe drupes are hard little blue nuggets covered in wax. Boil enough of them enough time, and the wax drifts complimentary. However I was more captivated by the leaves. A lot of foraging resources I spoke with at the time noted the dried leaf as the edible part, and nobody discussed utilizing it as a fresh herb. However that extreme, fresh, resinous scent was calling out to be utilized in amount.
While bayberry has a taste profile similar to Mediterranean bay leaf ( Laurus nobilis), it is less noticable therefore I utilize more of it. Where you may release one bayleaf, utilize 10 bayberry leaves. While the leaves dry well, their taste is boring and moldy. This native herb sings when it is fresh.
Spring’s bayberry leaves and flower buds are soft sufficient to slice carefully and to utilize as prolifically as you would parsley or cilantro (although their tastes have absolutely nothing in typical). They make scrumptious fresh herb crusts and stuffings, substance butter (slather on sliced up baguette, wrap, and warm-through), and an extremely green and tasty oil, which I freeze, to utilize in spoonfuls though the year.
Later On, when the leaves are too fibrous to chew, they can be utilized entire to fragrance infusions, cooking broths, seafood stews, poached mussels, roast chickens (things them under the skin and in the cavity), pies, sweet sauces, and even roasting or poaching fruit (they’re fantastic with plums).